Smile lines do not mean you have smiled too much. They are a normal part of how the face moves, and nearly everyone has them.

Skincare can hydrate the area, improve fine surface wrinkles and help prevent sun damage from making the lines more pronounced. But a deep nasolabial fold is partly structural, caused by changes in facial volume, skin support and elasticity. No cream can completely erase that structure.

The most useful approach is therefore not to search for one miracle product. It is to understand what kind of line you have, set realistic expectations and choose the right level of treatment.

What are smile lines?

Smile lines, also called laugh lines or nasolabial folds, are the creases that travel from the sides of the nose toward the corners of the mouth. They become more visible when you smile, laugh or speak.

When the face is young and the skin has strong elasticity, these folds may disappear almost completely at rest. Over time, the lines can remain visible even when the face is relaxed.

Smile lines should not be confused with two other types of lines around the mouth:

Nasolabial folds are common in people of every gender and skin tone. They are not an illness, and treating them is entirely a personal choice.

Why do smile lines become deeper?

Smile lines rarely have one single cause. What you see in the mirror is usually the result of several changes happening together.

Natural changes in facial support

With age, the skin gradually produces less collagen and elastin. The fat compartments that support the cheeks can also change position or lose volume, while bone structure evolves beneath them. As the cheek has less support, the fold beside the mouth can look deeper.

This is why a deep smile line is not simply a surface wrinkle. It is influenced by the skin, fat, muscle and underlying facial structure.

Sun exposure

Ultraviolet radiation contributes to the breakdown of collagen and elastin. With repeated exposure, the skin becomes less resilient and does not recover from facial movement as easily.

The evidence for daily protection is unusually strong for skincare. In a randomized trial involving 903 adults, the group assigned to daily sunscreen showed 24% less progression of visible skin aging over 4.5 years than the discretionary-use group.

This is especially relevant in the UAE, where incidental exposure during driving, commuting and outdoor activities adds up throughout the year.

Repeated facial movement

Smiling makes nasolabial folds visible, but smiling is not the problem. Every expression folds the skin temporarily. Lines become more persistent when aging or UV damage reduces the skin’s ability to spring back.

There is no good reason to smile less. Protecting the skin and supporting its condition is far more useful than trying to restrict normal expression.

Dry or dehydrated skin

Dehydration does not create a structural nasolabial fold, but it can make small lines around it look sharper. Well-moisturized skin reflects light more evenly and appears smoother and plumper.

This is also why some skincare products seem to produce an immediate improvement: they are temporarily improving hydration, not rebuilding lost facial volume.

Genetics, weight changes and smoking

Facial shape and genetics influence how early smile lines appear. Significant weight loss or gain can alter cheek volume and make the folds more visible. Smoking accelerates collagen and elastin damage and is associated with premature skin aging.

You can therefore have noticeable laugh lines in your twenties without having “old” skin. Your facial anatomy may simply make the folds more visible.

Can skincare get rid of smile lines?

Skincare can soften the appearance of fine lines, improve hydration and help slow additional photoaging. It cannot permanently remove a deep fold created by volume loss or skin laxity.

Here is the realistic breakdown:

The American Academy of Dermatology notes that moisturizer may plump fine lines within days, while most anti-aging products need at least six weeks and sometimes several months to show results.

The skincare ingredients that matter most

Broad-spectrum sunscreen

If you use only one product to prevent smile lines from becoming more pronounced, choose sunscreen.

Look for broad-spectrum UVA and UVB protection, SPF 30 or higher and a texture you can apply generously. Reapply approximately every two hours when outdoors and after swimming or heavy sweating.

Consistency matters more than whether the sunscreen is mineral or organic-filter based. A comfortable formula that works with your skin and makeup is usually the better long-term choice.

You can explore YKBFF’s Korean sunscreen collection for lightweight SPF50+ options designed for daily wear.

Retinol and prescription retinoids

Retinoids are vitamin A derivatives that support skin-cell turnover and collagen production. Among topical anti-aging ingredients, prescription tretinoin has some of the strongest evidence for improving fine and coarse wrinkles caused by photodamage. A systematic review found meaningful improvement in wrinkling, uneven pigmentation and other signs of sun-damaged skin.

Over-the-counter retinol is generally gentler but may work more slowly.

If you are new to retinol, begin once or twice a week at night. Apply a small amount to dry skin, follow with moisturizer and increase the frequency only if your skin remains comfortable. Avoid placing a strong formula directly into the corners of the nose or lips, where irritation is common.

More is not better. Irritated, peeling skin can make lines look more visible.

Retinoids should generally be avoided during pregnancy. People with rosacea, significant dryness or an impaired skin barrier should consult a dermatologist before using them.

Hyaluronic acid and other humectants

Topical hyaluronic acid attracts and retains water near the skin’s surface. It can make dehydrated skin feel softer and give fine lines a temporarily plumper appearance.

This is not the same as injectable hyaluronic acid filler. A serum hydrates the surface; a filler is placed beneath the skin to alter volume and support.

Glycerin, panthenol and beta-glucan can also support hydration. If the UAE’s heat and air conditioning leave your skin tight or dehydrated, a hydrating serum followed by a moisturizer can make the area around the mouth look noticeably more comfortable.

Browse YKBFF’s face serums for hydrating formulas that fit between toner and moisturizer.

Moisturizer and barrier-supporting ingredients

A moisturizer reduces water loss and helps the skin maintain a smoother surface. Useful ingredients include ceramides, glycerin, hyaluronic acid, squalane and fatty acids.

Choose the texture according to your skin rather than your age. Combination or oily skin may prefer a gel cream, while dry skin often benefits from a richer cream.

YKBFF’s Korean face moisturizers include both lightweight and nourishing options for UAE routines.

Niacinamide

Niacinamide can support the skin barrier while improving uneven tone, texture and fine lines. In a 12-week randomized split-face study, a 5% niacinamide moisturizer produced greater improvements in fine lines, pigmentation, texture and redness than the control moisturizer.

It is not a filler substitute, but it is a useful option for people who want a gentle, multi-purpose ingredient.

Vitamin C

A well-formulated vitamin C serum can provide antioxidant support and improve some signs of photodamage. Clinical studies suggest potential benefits for wrinkles and overall skin appearance, although the evidence is less consistent than it is for sunscreen and retinoids.

Vitamin C is best treated as a supporting ingredient rather than the centre of a smile-line routine.

A simple routine for softening the look of smile lines

You do not need a complicated ten-step routine. Using a few suitable products consistently is more effective than rotating through several strong actives.

Morning

1. Cleanse gently, or rinse with water if your skin is dry.

2. Apply a hydrating, niacinamide or vitamin C serum if desired.

3. Follow with moisturizer.

4. Finish with broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher.

Evening

1. Remove makeup and sunscreen without aggressive scrubbing.

2. Cleanse with a gentle facial cleanser.

3. Apply retinol on selected nights if your skin tolerates it.

4. Finish with moisturizer.

On non-retinol nights, focus on hydration and barrier care. Do not introduce retinol, exfoliating acids and several new serums at the same time. If irritation develops, stop the active products temporarily and simplify the routine.

Can facial exercises, massage or gua sha remove laugh lines?

Facial massage can feel relaxing and may temporarily reduce puffiness. Gua sha can also change how fluid is distributed across the face for a short time. Neither has been shown to replace lost facial volume or permanently remove nasolabial folds.

A small 2018 pilot study found modest improvements in perceived facial fullness after a 20-week facial-exercise program, but only 16 participants completed the study and there was no untreated control group. The result is interesting, but not conclusive.

If you enjoy massage or face yoga, use gentle pressure and view it as a wellness step. Avoid claims that a few exercises can “erase” deep lines or produce the equivalent of a facelift.

What about smile-line patches?

Silicone or hydrogel patches reduce water loss and keep the skin surface flat while worn. This can create a smoother, more hydrated appearance after removal.

The effect is temporary. Patches do not stimulate enough structural change to correct a deep nasolabial fold, but they may be useful before an event or makeup application.

Stop using them if the adhesive causes redness or irritation.

How to make smile lines less visible with makeup

Heavy makeup often collects inside folds and makes them look more pronounced. A lighter approach tends to be more flattering:

• Moisturize the area and allow the product to settle.

• Use a thin, flexible foundation instead of building heavy coverage.

• Apply concealer only where necessary.

• Keep setting powder light around the mouth.

• Press away creasing with a clean fingertip or sponge rather than adding another layer.

A very luminous product placed directly inside the fold can highlight its depth, while an overly matte formula may emphasize dryness. Aim for a natural, skin-like finish.

When professional treatments make more sense

If the fold remains deep at rest and skincare has reached its limit, a dermatologist or qualified plastic surgeon can assess whether the main issue is volume loss, skin laxity, surface texture or a combination.

Hyaluronic acid filler

Dermal filler can add support beneath the skin and soften a nasolabial fold. Depending on the anatomy, an experienced practitioner may treat the cheek or midface rather than simply injecting the crease itself.

Results are temporary. Cleveland Clinic gives a general duration of around six months to one year, although the exact result depends on the product, placement and individual.

Fillers are medical procedures. Common effects include swelling, tenderness and bruising. A rare accidental injection into a blood vessel can cause tissue death, stroke or blindness, which is why treatment should only be performed by a properly licensed and experienced medical professional.

Lasers, microneedling and radiofrequency

Resurfacing lasers, microneedling and radiofrequency-based treatments aim to stimulate collagen and improve texture or mild laxity. They may soften the surface surrounding a fold, but they do not replace significant lost volume.

Treatment choice should consider skin tone, downtime and the risk of post-inflammatory pigmentation. This is especially important for deeper skin tones, which require appropriate settings and an experienced practitioner.

Botulinum toxin

Botulinum toxin is highly effective for certain expression lines in the upper face. Nasolabial folds are different. In carefully selected cases, a clinician may target a muscle contributing to the fold, but Botox is not the default treatment for every smile line.

Over-relaxing the lower face can alter the smile or create asymmetry. A full facial assessment is essential.

Surgery

When significant skin laxity is the main cause, a facelift or cheek lift can create a more substantial structural change than skincare or non-surgical procedures. It also carries greater cost, downtime and surgical risk.

What does not work as well as the marketing suggests?

No topical product can permanently “fill” a deep nasolabial fold. Collagen creams primarily moisturize the skin; they do not simply deliver intact collagen into the deeper dermis. Drinking extra water can support general health but will not reverse facial volume loss when you are already adequately hydrated.

DIY filler devices, needle-free hyaluronic acid pens and injections performed in salons or homes should also be avoided. Smile-line treatment requires detailed knowledge of facial anatomy and medical preparation for complications.

Frequently asked questions

Can you completely get rid of smile lines?

Not permanently. Skincare can improve hydration, texture and fine wrinkles, while professional procedures can soften deeper folds. Normal facial movement and aging continue, so maintenance is usually necessary.

What is the best product for smile lines?

There is no single best product. Daily broad-spectrum sunscreen offers the most important preventive benefit. Retinoids have the strongest topical evidence for existing photoaging, while moisturizer and hyaluronic acid can make dehydration lines look smoother.

Does retinol remove deep smile lines?

Retinol may improve fine wrinkles and surface texture over time. It cannot replace lost cheek volume or fully remove a deep structural fold.

Can young people have smile lines?

Yes. Facial anatomy, cheek volume, genetics and expression patterns can make nasolabial folds visible at any age. Their presence does not necessarily indicate premature aging.

Are smile lines and marionette lines the same?

No. Smile lines run from the nose toward the corners of the mouth. Marionette lines extend from the mouth toward the chin.

How long does skincare take to improve laugh lines?

Hydration can make fine lines look softer within days. Retinol, niacinamide and other treatment ingredients generally need at least six to twelve weeks of consistent use, with further improvement possible over several months.

Should I see a dermatologist?

Consider an appointment if you want to use prescription retinoids, have sensitive or reactive skin, or are considering fillers, lasers or another procedure. A dermatologist can also determine whether the concern is primarily dryness, photodamage, laxity or volume loss.